Peter Hujar @ Matthew Marks Gallery

Peter Hujar

MATTHEW MARKS GALLERY
523 West 24th Street
March 15–April 26


Interest in this show, which arrives just over twenty years after photographer Peter Hujar’s untimely death from AIDS, could at first glance be chalked up to something like sociological curiosity. Shot between 1969 and 1985, nearly all in the artist’s East Village studio, these thirty-one photographs make up a fascinating study of a highly specific, highly mythologized era in New York City’s cultural history. The exhibit includes intimate portraits of downtown figures such as Hujar’s lover, the artist and writer David Wojnarowicz; the stunning, wistful Cookie Mueller; and an impossibly young, rumple-haired John Zorn—not to mention a suited-up Warhol, who, by this 1975 portrait session, was, admittedly, wholly uptown.

But what a strictly sociohistorical approach might miss is Hujar’s enormous gift for presenting beautifully lit and classically formed compositions that are nonetheless shot through with the decidedly rougher (though no less seductive) texture of the corporeal. The mark of the body serves as the punctum that provides a frisson of lyric realism. This combination of the rough and the smooth is, arguably, a trope that reached its ultimate articulation in the work of Mapplethorpe, but Hujar’s own practice is decidedly more modest, and, as such, more human and appealing than that of his well-known follower. In these portraits, texture can be as light-touched as the downy traces of mustache and the glint of a beaded rope belt on a homeless woman (Girl in My Hallway, 1976) or Mueller’s lustrous locks and faintly pitted skin (Cookie Mueller, 1981). In other cases, the subversion that texture enacts is more overtly political, as in the gender-bending, hirsute resplendence of a bearded Cockette (1973) or the erect member of a male nude (1978). With these disruptions of the conventionally beautiful, Hujar’s work points to the beauty that is inherent in disruption itself.

Photo: Girl in My Hallway, 1976, black-and-white photograph, 14 1/2 x 14 1/2".

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DESIGNER OPENS BOUTIQUE AT SITE OF LEGENDARY CLUB CBGB

CBGB has cleaned up its act and gotten a new infusion of style - menswear designer John Varvatos launched a shop at the old site of the rock landmark over the weekend.

And punk preservationists will be glad to hear that the Bowery site - which once hosted such pioneers as the Ramones and Blondie - hasn't been sanitized beyond recognition.

PHOTOS: Tour the shop.

The stage is gone, replaced by a tailoring shop, but it's encased with gold Alice Cooper records.

And those who remember the walls encrusted with posters and stickers will be relieved to find them intact and preserved behind glass.

With the designer's head-banger cred - he counts MC5 as his favorite band, writes a music column for British GQ and features Alice Cooper, Velvet Revolver and Cheap Trick in his ad campaigns - Varvatos has made the site equal parts museum and retail space.

"I wanted to combine music, fashion, memorabilia and really make it like a cultural space," he told The Post.

Varvatos is doing just that by featuring his lines of clothing and accessories, and his work for Converse, while also offering for sale items such as vinyl records, new and vintage audio equipment from the '70s, rock-photography books and memorabilia from his personal collection.

Imagine what guitarist Slash's living room might look like, and you'll get the picture.

"I like it. I'm relieved," said Arturo Vega, creative director for the Ramones, who has lived around the corner from the club since 1973.

"We were expecting a drug store in the space," he said. "So when I found out it was Varvatos moving in, it was a relief."

Mutual acquaintances put Vega together with the designer to add memorabilia to his decor.

The space had been empty for a year when Varvatos asked the landlord if he could look at it.

"Within 15 seconds, I thought, 'It's gonna be a bank. I gotta do something here,' " Varvatos recalled.

The designer takes his music seriously. The space has a small, movable stage where he will promote upcoming artists at monthly concerts, and the company is working on partnering with a radio station to broadcast from the store.

"Last week we were working and two kids from Stockholm came by, backpacks still on, just from the airport, and for their first stop, they wanted to see CBGB," he said.

"I want those kids to come here. They don't have to buy anything; that's not the intention. I want them to come in here and feel like, 'Wow, this is really cool. I can still feel it, I can still smell it, I can still get that aura.' "

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THE KILLER GUIDE TO K-TOWN

By Carol Lee
First published in Paper Magazine

In case you haven't heard the news, PAPER will be leaving the Tribeca/Chinatown 'hood that we have called home for 9 years, for a different ethnic enclave: The one in the 30s. Oh, yes, we are moving to Koreatown or K-town (if you are down with the lingo)! PAPER's own Kim Hastreiter dubbed the 30s the "new downtown" because it's the only place in Manhattan where the rents are not jaw-droppingly loco. Despite its scary proximity to Herald Square -- the most hairy square of them all -- K-town is two blocks of non-stop fun and food. Many of the joints are open 24-7. I, myself being of the kimchi blood, am a veteran K-street crawler and even though I'm not a carnivore, I treasure this delicious BBQ hot pocket with all my heart. So in tune with the upcoming overhaul and to jump-start PAPER's initiation into the 'hood, I took it upon myself to break down K-town for easy digestion and share my secret spots. In short, I'm giving you my key to the side door.

Koreatown is not a tourist stop like Chinatown. It's pretty insulated still and likes its aloofness. You won't find any souvenir shops that carry Korean tchotchkes except during the World Cup. (Koreans are nuts about soccer and during the Cup the national pride kicks into high gear and you'll see the streets flooded with people wearing "Red Devil" shirts.) Basically, K-town consists of restaurants, karaoke bars and spas, and they are, as I mentioned earlier, almost always open which is really great for de-toxing after a long night of eating and boozing. Korean food, for those not in the know, is best known for table-grilled meat, kimchi (spicy pickled cabbage) and bibimbap (it literally means "mixed rice"), which my vegetarian friends love: a bevy of saut�ed seasonal vegetables and roots over a bed of rice served in a big bowl with chili paste and a fried egg. So without further ado, here's the creme de la creme of K-town!

RESTAURANTS

Kum Gang San, 49 W. 32nd St., (212) 967-0909

Though it's not the oldest chip on the block, this one is the mother ship of all Korean restaurants. Kum Gang San is the most beautiful and the most fabled mountain in all of Korea (it's in North Korea) and like the name, this two-floor restaurant is grand and sprawling with artificial falling rocks and a waterfall. There's also a baby grand and sometimes they'll bring in a pianist or a traditional Korean harpist to help you work up your appetite. Their gigantic menu, like a cruise brochure, is chock full of options and pictures. It's a good place to go when you don't know what you want because KGS is famous for serving up consistently good dishes for any mood and occasion. They also have really good "banchan," small side dishes that you get for free with every Korean meal. It's not rude to ask for seconds of banchan, just so you know. Koreans do it all the time!

Shanghai Mong, 30 W. 32nd St., (212) 629-6450

Shanghai Mong is my new favorite! It's only a couple months old but has already established a cult following thanks to the hip and cozy Chinoiserie setting and good food at good prices. As the name suggests, it serves Korean-Chinese cuisine. Chinese food is a staple in Korea but it tastes slightly different from the American version. There's a lot of "fried and sauced" varieties that are mouthwatering but I suggest you follow your "When in Rome" instinct and order JaJang Myun (noodles in black bean sauce) or Jjam Bong (noodles in spicy broth with seafood). They are just about the most popular dishes in Korea after kimchi. In America, they would be burgers and pizza. You don't get banchan here, just some kimchi and daikkon (pickled radish).

Wonjo, 23 W. 32nd St., (212) 695-5815

Wonjo is one of the last two BBQ joints in K-town that still fires up its grill with charcoal -- the other being New York Gom Tang House, the oldest Korean restaurant on the block in the old Bergdorf Goodman building across the street. Gas-grillin' is run of the mill on 32nd but if you want the real deal you should go here. They also have a decent sushi bar and baby octopus for the grill. So go for the surf 'n' turf action. It is "Yum-O" as Rachel Ray would say. I love the waitstaff here.

Gahm Mi Oak, 43 W. 32nd St., (212) 695-4113

This restaurant is famous for its kimchi and ox bone soup, a hangover cure devoured by all hard-drinking Korean men and women. If you are vegetarian, there's not much for you here. But I heard that their bibimbap is to die for!

Shilla, 37 W. 32nd St., (212) 967-1880

Shilla is also new. This three-story food emporium definitely flexes its muscles on many levels. The food is pretty stellar and the d�ecor is slick and modern and they also have a good selection of banchan. Here the waiters hurry about with headsets like publicists during Fashion Week. If I were the owner of Kum Gang San, which by the way is only two stores down, I'd watch out for Shilla.

Emo's Kimbap, 2 W. 32nd St., (212) 594-1466

Emo means aunt in Korean. Kimbap literally means "seaweed rice," basically the Korean equivalent of a sushi roll. This tiny hole in the wall makes sushi rolls laid with spicy squid, cheese or kimchi on the spot, to go. Emo also makes all-veggie rolls if this sounds too weird for you. Mmmm, makes me hungry just thinking about it!

Kun Jip, 9 W. 32nd St., (212) 279-3075

If you are craving a big fat strip of grilled pork belly, look no further. This is the place. Not only is Kun Jip good for gas-BBQ-ing at your table, it serves delectable banchan and has all kinds other yummy Korean staples. I especially love their grilled mackerel and egg custard. There's always a wait here for dinner but it's well worth it.

Cho Dang Gol, 55 W. 35th St., (212) 695-8222

Cho Dang Gol is one of my all time favorites and the only place on the list that's not on the main K-town drag. They have the freshest homemade tofu. Whenever I'm here I always get grilled pollock with spicy sauce, soondubu soup, which is a spicy soup made with soft culled tofu, and makguli, unfiltered milky rice wine. I love the down-home atmosphere and service, and the food is really, really good. In the winter, I think about coming here all the time.

Ah Rang, 9 W. 32nd St., 2nd Fl., (212) 947-3028

Ah Rang is located on the second floor above Kun Jip and has a homey rustic feel and a good view of the strip. The menu is Korean tapas- and sushi-heavy so it's good for late night munching and drinking. I love coming here for some makguli and spicy snail or hwe, the Korean version of sashimi. Lunch and dinner are served buffet style. The selections are fabulous and fresh -- definitely a good bang for your buck. I had my last birthday catered from here and everyone loved it! Also, I think this is a great place for any Korean food neophyte because you can just sample dishes without making big commitments. Lastly, the waiters here are super-cute!

Mandoo Bar, 2 W. 32nd St., (212) 279-3075

Mandoo is Korean for dumpling and from the street you can look through the window and see uniformed Korean ladies making mandoo with different kinds stuffing at this cute, narrow eatery. Mandoo is more like Japanese gyoza in that it's lighter than the Chinese dumpling. The veggie mandoo is made with spinach skin. It's healthy and totally delish. Obviously mandoo is the main attraction here but they are also famous for a popular dish called, "Table Dukbokki." It's basically a casserole of rice cakes stirred in super-red, super-spicy chili sauce with chopped-up veggies and oden (fish cake) and ramen noodles (sans the sauce powder). They bring you a gas stove and a big ol' pot ready to go and you cook it on the table. This concoction, if you can believe it, is considered a snack and all Korean kids have grown up on it. You have to be at least half-Korean to like this dish; it's definitely not for everyone. In case you haven't noticed the pattern, Koreans are way into table cooking. But MB also has many other no-frills noodle dishes that are good. Don't foget to start out with their famous egg-fried tofu!

Han Gawi, 12 E. 32nd St., (212) 213-0077

Koreans are big-time meat lovers but there's also a gentler side to the peninsular cuisine and Han Gawi is an excellent example. This beautiful and serene all-vegetarian place is frequently placed at the top of the best vegetarian restaurant list by local magazines. Coming here is like time-traveling to another era: You have to take your shoes off and sit Indian-style. Whether you go prix-fix or a� la carte, every morsel is made with the freshest ingredients that are fit for a king, quite literally -- they specialize in dishes that were served in the royal palace back in the day. You'll either love this place or be slightly turned off by it -- sometimes the dishes can be a little baby food-y.

Woori Jip, 12 W. 32nd St., (212) 244-1115

Woori Jip means "our house" and this house is all about the cheap buffet and pre-packaged takeouts. This fast food joint is always hopping with young cute kids or workers on the go.

Woo Chon, 8-10 W. 36th St., (212) 695-0676

I almost forgot about Woo but I'm glad I didn't because the lady who owns this off-the-beaten-path nook is so nice. This is actually another joint that's not on 32nd. Last time I was here she brought me these delicious raw oysters on the house for no reason. They serve up Southern Korean fare and their array of banchan is plentiful and eclectic.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS

Han Ah Reum, 25 W. 32nd St., (212) 695-3283

Han Ah Reum is like the Stop & Shop of the Korean grocery chain scene in America. You can come here and stock up on your ramen noodles, mandoo and frozen eel, replace your old broken rice cooker and be cruised by creepy white guys... just kidding.

Koryo Books, 35 W. 32nd St., (212) 564-1844

If you are looking for Korean novels, cookbooks and magazines, this is the place. They also have a video room in the back where you can rent all the latest Korean new wave movies and popular TV shows on DVD.

Juvenex, 25 W. 32nd St., 5th Fl., (646) 733-1330, www.juvenexspa.com

Juvenex is by far the best spa in K-town. Korean spas are known for non-stop service, especially full-body exfoliations done by butch Korean ladies. They peel and peel until you are literally shedding skin on the floor. You haven't experienced a Korean spa treatment 'till you've been manhandled by a pair of strong woman-hands. Juvenex is also known for its jade (hot) igloo. This gem is open 24 hours and it's unisex. There's no kinky business here -- just fresh and clean clean.

Chorus Karaoke, 25 W. 32nd St., (212) 967-2244

Koreans go cuckoo for karaoke and that's no joke. There are tons of karaoke joints in K-town but Chorus is my favorite because their signage on the street has a singing dog coming out of Steven Tyler's mouth and also the decor is very Fifth Element. Each room is decked out with a disco ball and you can ask for tambourines that light up at the desk. They have songbooks in five different languages, including Farsi and English, and disposable gauze mike covers are provided for sanitary purposes.

Players, 25 W. 32nd St., 2nd Fl., (212) 868-2029

Players is the sports bar in K-town. During the World Cup I came here to watch the Korea vs. Switzerland game but got turned away. The bouncers wouldn't let you in unless you had RSVP-ed and the place was packed to the gills. It's located directly below Juvenex, which is how I found out about it in the first place. I topped off a six-hour spa session with a nice cold cocktail at Players overlooking 32nd Street.

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